Pan-Fried Steak

For a while there, steak lovers practically had to head underground to enjoy their red meat. But the tide has turned, as it always does: Steaks are back, and steak houses are packed with eager carnivores, relishing their dinners all the more now that beef is once again in vogue.

It's easy to prepare a good steak at home. Merle Ellis, the author of The Great American Meat Book (Knopf, 1996), knows his way around a cut of beef, and he gave us this remarkably simple and remarkably good recipe for rib-eye steaks. Rib eyes are tender, flavorful and readily available — and they cook so quickly and taste so great, there's no need to wait in line at a crowded restaurant if you're hungry for a fabulous steak dinner.

RIB-EYE STEAKS WITH MUSHROOMS, BRANDY, AND BLUE CHEESE

2 servings

2 10- to 12-ounce rib-eye steaks (each about 1 inch thick)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1/2 pound mushrooms, thickly sliced
4 garlic cloves, chopped
3/4 canned beef broth
1/4 cup brandy
1/4 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 1/4 cups crumbled blue cheese (about 4 ounces)

Place steaks in shallow dish. Drizzle with oil; rub oil all over steaks. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour.

Melt butter in heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and garlic; sauté until mushrooms are just tender, about 4 minutes.

Heat heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add steaks to skillet; fry until cooked to desired doneness, about 5 minutes per side for medium-rare. Using tongs, transfer steaks to plates; tent loosely with foil to keep warm.

Add broth, then brandy and minced rosemary to same large skillet and bring to boil, scraping up browned bits. Add mushroom mixture. Boil until liquid is thick enough to coat spoon lightly; about 5 minutes. Add 1 cup cheese; stir until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon sauce over steaks. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup cheese. Garnish with rosemary sprigs.