The Best Fried Chicken

Picture a big picnic table tucked away by a shady stream and piled high with old-fashioned summer food: potato salad, coleslaw, watermelon, peach pie. In the center of the table is the crowning glory, an immense platter of crunchy, tender fried chicken. Sound good? Then have we got a recipe for you. Selma Brown Morrow, one of Bon Appétit's assistant food editors, created the crispiest, juiciest fried chicken ever, thanks to a buttermilk marinade and a spicy coating. This perfectly cooked chicken is the incontestable star of any summer spread.

Deviled Fried Chicken

4 servings

Deviled is a southern term for a dish that is highly seasoned. To make life easier, have the butcher cut up the chicken, and use a small chicken — around three pounds — so that it will cook through quickly. If you're cutting it yourself, start by going along both sides of the backbone with kitchen shears or a large knife. Once the backbone has been removed, cut the chicken into eight pieces (two breasts, wings, legs, and thighs); include the top third of each breast with the wings for a more generous serving. The chicken needs to marinate for at least a day, so plan accordingly.

MARINADE AND COATING

2 cups buttermilk

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons onion powder with green onion and parsley

5 teaspoons salt

4 teaspoons dry mustard

4 teaspoons cayenne pepper

2 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper

1 3- to 3 1/4-pound fryer chicken, backbone removed, chicken cut into 8 pieces,

skinned (except wings)

3 cups all purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 tablespoon garlic powder

In 1-gallon resealable plastic bag, mix buttermilk, Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1 teaspoon cayenne, and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Add chicken pieces. Seal bag, eliminating air. Turn bag to coat chicken evenly. Refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 2 days, turning plastic bag occasionally.

Whisk flour, baking powder, garlic powder, remaining 1 tablespoon onion powder, 4 teaspoons salt, 3 teaspoons dry mustard, 3 teaspoons cayenne, and 1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper in 13x9x2-inch glass dish. With marinade still clinging to chicken pieces (do not shake off excess), add chicken to flour mixture; turn to coat thickly. Let chicken stand in flour mixture for 1 hour, turning chicken occasionally to recoat with flour mixture.

FOR FRYING

5 cups (or more) peanut oil

Pour oil to depth of 1 1/4 inches into deep 10- to 11-inch-diameter pot. Attach deep-fry thermometer. Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350°F. Add 4 pieces of chicken, skinned side down, to oil. Reduce heat to medium-low and fry 5 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain oil temperature between 280°F and 300°F (oil should bubble constantly around chicken).

Using wooden spoons, turn chicken over. Fry 7 minutes. Turn chicken over again. Fry until deep golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes longer. Using same spoons, transfer chicken to large rack set on baking sheet.

Reheat oil to 350°F. Repeat frying with remaining 4 pieces of chicken.

Serve chicken warm or at room temperature within 2 hours, or chill up to 1 day and serve cold.